The Birth of a Giant

From these small beginnings grew a coffee giant. By 1830, Brazil produced 30% of the world’s coffee supply, increasing to 40% in 1840. The associated increase in supply led to a drop in the global price of coffee, a sign of things to come.

By the 1920s, Brazil produced an astonishing 80% of the world’s coffee. The influential figures in the coffee industry, known as the Coffee Barons, gained significant wealth due to this success and wielded considerable influence in Brazilian politics. Their power was such that they played a pivotal role in Brazil’s efforts to promote and elevate the status of coffee, first from 1906 to 1914 and then again in 1917.

At this point, coffee financed a considerable amount of national infrastructure, while political protection led to even greater production. However, no one could prepare for the Great Depression in 1929, which saw the global economy crumble. With a large surplus of coffee already harvested and stockpiled, Brazil’s government burned 78 million bags of coffee to stabilise the price. Which ultimately had little effect.

Thankfully, the government had already begun to enjoy the rewards of coffee profits, which had been steadily increasing over the years. They had already made significant improvements to the national infrastructure, and other industries like textiles were thriving, which helped offset the decrease in coffee demand.

Growing Pains, Quotas, and the ICA

In the 1940s, World War II shut down European coffee markets, causing concern in the US. The fear was that declining coffee prices could drive coffee-producing countries in Central and South America into the arms of the Nazis or the Communists. In reaction, an international quota-based agreement was drawn up that helped raise and stabilise coffee prices.

This agreement led to establishing the International Coffee Agreement (ICA) in 1962. Like the previous agreement, the ICA expanded to encompass 42 coffee-producing countries. Quotas were based on the indicative coffee price set by the International Coffee Organization (ICO). When the price decreased, quotas were reduced, and when the price rose, quotas went up.

The system was in place until 1989, when Brazil declined to accept a reduction in quota, leading to the failure of the ICA. This resulted in an unregulated market, causing a significant drop in coffee prices. The re-emergence of Vietnam as a producer after decades of war, along with unfavourable weather and economic conditions, led to a coffee crisis in the late 1990s and early 2000s. In response, the Fair Trade movement was established to ensure good practices by supporting coffee farmers under pressure and providing a reasonable price floor for raw coffee.

Brazil’s coffee farms

As the world’s largest coffee producer, Brazil’s coffee sector is highly industrialised, prioritising high yield and production. Many farms are located on large (up to 2000 hectares) flat, low-altitude land, which is not ideal for producing exceptional coffees. These farms often use strip picking or other mechanical harvesting methods, leading to the inclusion of many unripe cherries in the crop.

Despite its reputation, speciality coffee producers are dedicated to improving the coffee industry. They prioritise supporting smallholders and cooperatives over large-scale farms, some of which can be as small as 10 hectares. Because of their ideal locations at higher altitudes, these small coffee farms are likelier to produce coffee with complex flavours.

Small-scale farmers take pride in their work, prioritising quality over quantity. They delicately hand-pick cherries, ensuring only the ripest fruit is harvested. They also prefer using natural processing methods to bring out a richer and more flavourful taste in the cup.

What does Brazilian Coffee taste like?

There are multiple varieties of coffees grown across the country, including both traditional varieties and more experimental ones such as Catucaí, a hybrid of Catuaí Arabica and the Robusta (known as conillon in Brazil) variety Icatú. Depending on your coffee type, it will alter the overall flavour.

The classic Brazilian coffee profile is of nuts and chocolate, with a full body. Excellent speciality coffees like our pink label coffee, Auntie Mary’s Green Canary, also deliver a delicate acidity such as citrus or apple, making them the perfect allrounder.

Our speciality Brazilian Brew

From the beautiful Cerrado Mineiro region of Brazil comes Auntie Mary’s Green Canary. This delightful coffee has a smooth, velvety texture and is packed with the delicious flavours of chocolate-coated hazelnuts, complemented by hints of dried fruit and a refreshing hint of crisp apple in the finish. Its gentle medium roast boasts a lovely balance of body and clarity, making it a perfect brew for any time of the day.

This coffee is part of the fantastic Café Delas Programme, and it has been carefully grown by talented women farmers. The program is based on the idea that when women have better access to resources and an equal say in leadership, they can produce top-notch speciality-grade coffee and make positive changes in their communities. High five!