Coffee Origins: Mexico

When did Mexico start growing coffee?

Coffee was introduced to Mexico in the 1700s when Spanish settlers brought the crop over to kickstart the industry. It initially began infiltrating small farms that mainly grew the widely sought-after cocoa plant, which at the time was a primary source of income for communities across the country.

Over time, coffee plantations naturally grew and expanded, becoming a major agricultural export in the 1870s. It quickly spread across the country, with producers in Veracruz, Oaxaca, and Chiapas becoming the largest producers of coffee beans.

During the 1900s, coffee was vital to the country’s economy, particularly in rural areas with lower-income communities. Thanks to Mexico’s natural and physical qualities, such as high elevation, good climate, and favourable weather, the produced coffee was of very high quality. It was also cheap to produce. By the 1980s, over one million acres across 12 states were used for coffee cultivation.

Who was Portfirio Díaz, and how did he help the coffee industry?

Díaz was a Mexican general during the French invasion of 1862-1865. Following France’s defeat, he and a group of military leaders overthrew Mexico’s unpopular president, and Díaz took his place.

His leadership led to the quick expansion of the coffee industry, with both foreign investors and the government investing in the sector. By 1908, 69% of the country’s coffee was being exported, a significant increase from the 26% just 34 years earlier.

In 1911, after serving as Mexico’s President for 30 years, Díaz was replaced by Francisco Madero, who was shortly overthrown by generals in a military coup. This event sparked the Mexican Revolution, which resulted in the loss of over 1 million lives.

What does the coffee industry look like today?

Since its humble beginnings amidst political turmoil, Mexico now boasts over 500,000 coffee producers. More than 95% of these are small-scale farmers with less than seven acres of land. Various institutions have been established to enhance quality, regulate prices, ensure fair wages for farmers, and promote sustainability. One of the largest organisations is the Cafecol Quality Institute (CQI), located in Veracruz, one of the country’s primary coffee production regions.

These institutions are essential to securing a future for the Mexican coffee industry. They offer much-needed support through disasters like the rust outbreak in 2012, which saw 70% of their harvest fail and left 1.7 million unemployed. Since then, they have worked to develop hybrid varieties that are more resistant to disease and climate change.

What can you expect from a Mexican brew?

Like all coffees, the flavours are influenced by various factors, including roasting style, processing method, growing altitude, and bean variety. However, Mexican coffee is typically known for its chocolatey, nutty, and acidic profile with a full-bodied feel.

Most of Mexico’s coffee is grown in three main regions: Chiapas, Oaxaca, and Veracruz. Each area offers distinct characteristics due to soil, climate, and altitude differences. For example, Chiapas, located in Southern Mexico, produces coffee with nutty notes, light citrus undertones, and a base of milk chocolate, thanks to its nutrient-rich volcanic soil. On the other hand, Veracruz, with its varying altitudes, yields a more balanced body with richer notes, subtle floral undertones, and noticeable acidity in the coffee.